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Re: N64 HDMI converter thread

Posted: Thu Mar 09, 2017 9:33 am
by RdCrestdBreegull
When I have the UltraHDMI connected to my AVR (even when the N64 is turned off), HDMI-CEC does no longer work.

It's no dealbreaker, but annoying, because I always have to disconnect the HDMI cable of the N64..
@Marshall: Is there a fix planned or in this FW for the problem when connecting the UltraHDMI to a CEC AVR?
Hi, I believe someone reported the same issue earlier in the thread and I wanted to bring it to your attention as well. When my UltraHDMI is plugged into my A/V receiver, the HDMI Audio Return Channel will not work. When it is unplugged, the ARC works just fine. I've had my receiver since the first half of this year and could never get the ARC to work with my Smart TV's Netflix (had to resort to using optical audio), but I remembered that another member had this issue and I just unplugged my N64 and got the ARC working for the very first time.

My equipment:
Samsung UN40H6350AF Smart TV (latest firmware)
Anthem MRX1120 receiver (latest firmware)
UltraHDMI N64 firmware 1.03
^Yes, compatibility to ARC is also my number one wishlist feature.
I'm using a Denon 1912.
Please look into it Marshall.
Does anyone know if 1.05 fixes the ARC issue?
No it does not.

Marshall it would be nice, if you could at least acknowledge the problem. Thanks
Just noticed on a recent My Life In Gaming podcast that someone is having an issue with using the UltraHDMI with an HDMI switcher box. I believe the issue may be directly related to why the UltraHDMI causes issues with the Audio Return Channel of an AVR.

This is the episode:
iTunes
My Life In Gaming
Game & Production Talk (w/2 Player Productions) 2.19.2017
They start talking about it at 50:20, and it goes through 51:58

"...if [the UltraHDMI] is plugged in to our HDMI switcher, it doesn't matter if [the UltraHDMI] is on or off, it will always cause the switcher to jump over to [the UltraHDMI's] input"

marshallh, is there any way we can at least get an acknowledgement of the issue? Just confirmation that you have heard our comments? I love your product but this is causing issues for people :'((
The issue is related to the ESD clamps on the CEC line. Many ARC devices use this channel to talk to the TV. The solution is to cut a trace on the pcb for earlier units. It is pretty dicey and requires skill with an xacto knife. By the way, the first Raspberry Pi rev has this same problem.
So the issue's only on earlier units? So the only two options are to replace the UltraHDMI with a newer one, or to have someone make a highly precise cut? Is there any way you can send a skilled modder (RetroFixes?) instructions on how to perform this repair? I would gladly pay someone to make this cut! Thank you for responding!! :))
I talked with Wesley Almond and he says this is the first he's heard of this. He would need instructions but there are no promises that he could or would perform it. He just put up pre-orders for new UltraHDMI kits...I'm assuming these ones don't have the ARC issue, right? Is there any way you could send him instructions for how to fix the old ones? I need to know if he can perform the fix, or else I need to sign up for the new pre-orders right away so I can get my old one swapped out for a new one. thanks

Re: N64 HDMI converter thread

Posted: Fri Mar 10, 2017 7:52 am
by inspectah
Just noticed on a recent My Life In Gaming podcast that someone is having an issue with using the UltraHDMI with an HDMI switcher box. I believe the issue may be directly related to why the UltraHDMI causes issues with the Audio Return Channel of an AVR.
The issue is related to the ESD clamps on the CEC line. Many ARC devices use this channel to talk to the TV. The solution is to cut a trace on the pcb for earlier units. It is pretty dicey and requires skill with an xacto knife. By the way, the first Raspberry Pi rev has this same problem.
Details please, its really annoying.

Re: N64 HDMI converter thread

Posted: Sat Mar 11, 2017 1:43 pm
by marshallh
See the picture. The yellow line is where you should cut. It's possible with a sharp xacto knife. You have to carve a 'V' shape into the trace to be able to sever it without hurting any nearby traces.

If you look at your serial number you can lookup the batch code:
For example: R1AC040219
04 = Batch code.

08 and 10 batch codes as well as all subsequent codes are not affected.

Image

Re: N64 HDMI converter thread

Posted: Sat Mar 11, 2017 11:08 pm
by RdCrestdBreegull
See the picture. The yellow line is where you should cut. It's possible with a sharp xacto knife. You have to carve a 'V' shape into the trace to be able to sever it without hurting any nearby traces.

If you look at your serial number you can lookup the batch code:
For example: R1AC040219
04 = Batch code.

08 and 10 batch codes as well as all subsequent codes are not affected.
Thanks! I will ask Wesley Almond. My batch code is 04.

Re: N64 HDMI converter thread

Posted: Wed Mar 15, 2017 2:54 pm
by RdCrestdBreegull
Info for everyone regarding the UltraHDMI CEC/ARC issue:

I contacted the following USA modders:

Alex H. at Voultar (Corbin, Kentucky) -- Says he hasn't been doing a lot of UltraHDMI stuff and doesn't believe he is qualified
Jason Rauch at GametechUS -- Too busy
Michael Smith (Seattle, Washington) -- Doesn't want to modify an existing kit
Wesley Almond at RetroFixes -- Looking into it, will consider

Rob Decotiis at OFS Mods (Neptune, New Jersey) --
"...Because of the very small trace size, I would recommend against using an xacto knife, and would, instead, use a micro drill (in the range of 0.2 to 0.5mm or so, depending on the width of the actual trace) to cut it. This will give a much more precise cut, and, IMO, will minimize the risk of damaging surrounding traces. My charge for doing this work would be $40, plus the cost of shipping the console back to you when it's complete..."
He also said that if he's not the person who installed the kit then he cannot be held responsible if something installation-related which was done poorly is damaged while he's working on it, but that if the installation was done well then there should be no issues.

So basically your best bet is to either get the original installer to swap it for one with a newer batch number (per marshallh's comment above^) or to contact Rob Decotiis at OFS Mods to perform the fix for $40 plus shipping.

Re: N64 HDMI converter thread

Posted: Tue Apr 04, 2017 2:54 pm
by MRKane
Hey everyone! Hobbist installer here who brought a few HDMI boards off of Game-Tech.us.

While I'm no stranger to soldering small chips and traces, and have a decades experience under the hood of a N64, I've had two consoles die from just attaching the connector ribbon. I figure I'm running my iron too hot and I've cooked the RCP. In both cases it was below 300.C and in the second one I made sure it was around 270.C to keep the solder flowing as I was taught to do. I've done plenty of PIF, RAM and CPU swaps just using hot air and the board has stood up to the temperature so I'm scratching my head about this.

Simple question: What temperature would be recommended for soldering up the ribbon, I'm finding the RCP seems flakier than other (admittedly already flaky) N64 components and don't want to kill another console.

All help appreciated!

Re: N64 HDMI converter thread

Posted: Tue Apr 04, 2017 3:05 pm
by MobiusStripTech
I have done ~30 installs so far and on all of them I run my iron at 330C. I use that temp for almost everything without issue. How are you damaging the RCP? Are you drag soldering the ribbon? Do you use flux? What type of solder are you using? What type of tip/iron?

Re: N64 HDMI converter thread

Posted: Tue Apr 04, 2017 4:29 pm
by MRKane
Thank you for the super fast reply! It's heartening to know that I couldn't have cooked the chip from the iron being too hot...but that's not solving the problem I suppose...

To answer your questions: I was taught to solder from the military, so figure I'm not being massively destructive. I'm not using solder-ribbon at all - have a motto that things are better if I do it once and do it right the first time so took my time. The solder I'm using is 60% lead 40% tin, the iron tip is a small wedge and I use both liquid and pen rosin flux. I've a setup with an electronic microscope so I'm sure nothing is bridged. As for soldering the ribbon I'm connecting it as described in the "how to" guide - to me drag soldering only has a place when putting down surface mount components with "lots of legs".

I also checked both units before proceeding with the mod, but stopped after just attaching the ribbon to the RCP to check, and it was then that I noticed I wasn't getting any video but the unit did power up. Scratching my head I tried the same with the other ribbon and got the same result. Is it possible that I've got to have the HDMI card plugged in to get standard video out? I wouldn't think this would be the case as the ribbon as it stands shouldn't be affecting anything, but I suppose that could be a possibility.

Aside from that I've a few N64 units left and might look at lifting the ribbons for another try (thrilling activity, but nothing I've not done a lot in the past), and also seeing if the units magically start working again. I don't really know what more to add but can answer any questions :)

Re: N64 HDMI converter thread

Posted: Tue Apr 04, 2017 7:18 pm
by MobiusStripTech
Sounds like you are using the right stuff. With just the ribbon attached you should still get the old av without issues. If not then either you have a bridge on adjacent pins or you have lifted the RCP pins from the board. Both are very possible.

I like to tack the ribbon in each section and then turn the board so I can work sideways. It has worked really well for me in the past. If you are certain you don't have bridges then the next likely issue is lifting the pins. Your iron might be too cold and that could cause you to need to linger a bit longer than you want.

Re: N64 HDMI converter thread

Posted: Tue Apr 04, 2017 9:11 pm
by MRKane
Interesting you'd mention lifting the pins - I did notice solder wicking up around the ribbon under the microscope but figured it was what was on my iron...

I might try lifting the ribbon in one case and checking the points. In the other I'll try and touchup along the ribbon itself with some more flux and solder to see if I can clear anything that's not immediately obvious. I don't know about the durability of the RCP chip itself, and/or if it will have survived a potential bridging, but have found it pretty durable in the past.

Worst case I suppose is that I'll have to order and wait on some more ribbons :) Thank you so much for your help - I'll be sure to get back to you regarding anything that I manage to figure out!